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French Polynesia Official Classification

Tahiti Cultured Pearls are pearl concretions that are secreted inside the black-lipped Pinctada Margaritifera species of pearl oysters cultivated mainly in the lagoons of French Polynesia. They consist of thick pearly layers containing organic substances and calcium carbonate in the form of aragonite. In French Polynesia, the trade designation "Tahiti Cultured Pearl" is reserved exclusively for cultured pearls obtained from a grafting of the locally cultivated Pinctada Margaritifera, variety cumingi pearl oyster. Such pearls have a continuous pearly layer over at least 80% of their surface and do not reveal either the underlying nucleus.

Tahiti Cultured Pearls are classified according to their diameter, luster, shape, surface purity and color.

Diameter

Pearls are classified from millimeter to millimeter and measured by the shortest diameter, which generally ranges between 8 and 14mm.This is done by sorting them through sieves. Some pearls reach 16mm and very exceptionally 18mm.To date, the record diameter for a round pearl is 21mm, 24,6mm for a semi-round, 26,95mm for a baroque pearl (Exhibited in The Robert Wan Museum of The Pearl)

Luster

This is the quality of the light reflections from the pearl's surface. Pearls are said to have high, or very high, luster when the reflections are bright and sharp. When the light reflections are weak and fuzzy (or diffused), the pearls are described as dull. The Tahiti Cultured Pearl rivals anything grown in Japan for the sharpness and intensity of reflected light from a pearl's surface. In fact, pearls from French Polynesia often possess such a mirror-like finish and radiant brilliance that their overall appearance is likened to that of very shiny metallic objects, such as ball bearings. The only problem with such an analogy is that it suggests a cold, steely beauty. In reality, lustrous Tahiti Cultured Pearls have warmth to them--even when their surfaces gleam as brightly as a dress shoe, Regardless, the lustre of the Tahiti Cultured Pearls is just like their color : “all natural”.

Shape

Four basic shapes are defined at the production stage:

  • round and semi-round
  • drop, button and oval
  • semi-baroque and baroques
  • ringed or circled

For some jewelry makers, shape is purely a design element, be it the sensuous curves of the drop or the flowing free-form lines of many baroque shapes. For such artists, all shapes that inspire them share aesthetic equality.

Most designers agree it is difficult to favor one kind of shape over another. A New York designer once said: "A pearl that looks homely seen loose will be transformed into a thing of beauty if placed in the right setting."

Round Pearls

Round pearls are almost perfect spheres whose diameter variation rate is less than 2%.?The round pearl is the most sought after and the most rare of Tahiti cultured pearls. Because Tahiti Cultured Pearls are most commonly used in jewelry, the low incidence of rounds is not considered a drawback. On the contrary, the wide variety of affordable fancy shapes is a big drawing card for jewelers who specialize in them.

Semi-round pearls

Semi-round pearls are slightly imperfect spheres whose diameter variation rate is greater than 2% but less than 5%.?When a pearl is allowed two years to grow inside an oyster, the chances of even, perfectly spherical nacre accumulation are a long shot. One experienced seller of fine Tahiti Cultured Pearls says true rounds rarely account for more than 10% of a Tahiti Cultured Pearls farm's crop. And 5% is more the norm.

Drop, button and oval pearls

The drop or pear presenting at least one axis of symmetry. The button presenting at least one axis of symmetry. The oval presenting at least one axis of symmetry. The semi-baroque in the strict sense presenting at least one axis of revolution. The baroque pearl is generally an uneven pearl which does not fall in any of the above categories.

Ringed or circled pearls

Ringed or circled pearls are characterized by regular streaks or concave rings perpendicular to an axis of revolution over more than the upper third of the pearl's surface.

Quality

This is determined by observing the special features of the pearl's surface and luster. But nacre thickness, color, shape and size also judge quality.

Nacre Thickness

This affects the durability and sometimes the beauty of a Tahiti cultured pearl.If a cultured pearl starts off with a thick coating of nacre (and gets reasonable care), its beauty will last a life time.??If, however, the pearl has a thin nacre coating (or is carelessly treated), its nacre will soon wear away, exposing the nucleus. ??The French Polynesian Government has set up a minimum nacre thickness of 0,8mm to the Tahiti Cultured Pearl. All pearls showing less than 0,8mm thickness are banned for marketing and destroyed.

Surface

For reasons best understood by psychologists, pearl dealers talk about the degree to which a pearl's skin is free of blemish as "spotting", a very negative term for a very common pearl feature. Tahiti cultured pearl farmers generally use four ratings for surface quality: A, B, C and D. Pearl dealers prefer the neutral term "surface" as a way of discussing--or even rating--the presence or absence of imperfections in pearls. In this regard, it is the pearl word equivalent of "clarity".

Top Gem

Flawless pearl. Excellent luster.

Quality A

An "A Quality" pearl is a flawless pearl on at least 90% of it surface : on the remaining 10%, the pearl may have some slight concentrated imperfections with one or two deep imperfections tolerated. At least a very high luster.

Quality B

A "B Quality" pearl is a flawless pearl on at least 70% of its surface. On the remaining 30%, the pearl may have some slight concentrated imperfections with one or two deep imperfections tolarated. At least a high luster.

Quality C

A "C Quality" pearl is a flawless pearl on at least 40% of its surface. On the remaining 60%, the pearl may have some slight concentrated imperfections with a 10% of deep imperfections tolerated. At least a medium luster.

Quality D

A "D Quality" pearl is one that has either a large amount of slight flaws distributed over 60% of the surface, or several slight and deep flaws distributed over 60% of the surface at the most, regardless of the luster.

Color

Tahiti Cultured Pearls offer an extensive array of colors and they all are natural. This is what makes their precious difference. They generally have a body color enriched by at least one overtone color. There exists a wide range of body colors, the predominant basic colors of a Tahiti Cultured Pearl being: black, grey, blue, green and brown. Overtone colors on dark-colored pearls are pink, blue, gold, silver and a reddish purple. These overtones may be present in a variety of combinations and are considered a plus factor. Specific names are given to those colors:

"Peacock": greenish black
"Cherry" or "Aubergine": purplish black
"Champagne": yellowish grey
"Pistachio": greenish grey
"Lavender": bluish black
"Tahitian gold": golden black
"Pigeon grey": purplish grey
"Silver": grey
"Orient grey": surface iridescence